Built for drag racing, off-road, tractor pull, and limited street.
No vacuum lines or kick-down components are required.
Full manual valve body - Reverse Shift pattern. (Forward optional)
Complete unit comes with general installation instructions.
Full flow oil circulation
Maximum Torque and Thrust Capacity
"Engine Braking" in 1st and 2nd gear with forward pattern only
Quick Shift Operation
Reverse Shift Pattern standard (Forward is optional)
Competition Hi-flow Manual Valve-body & High Pressure Regulator
Racing Intermediate Band
Clutch Packs Modified for additional extreme duty Frictions
|-GS||Low gear planetary set (2.75)||$676.00||$796.00
|-DP||Deep (steel) Pan & Filter extension||$171.00||$202.00
|-DS||Dip Stick & Tube (cadmium plated w/ locking top - specify engine)||$69.00||$81.00
Fill out the "Converter Application Form" to determine correct converter size &
stall rpm. All transmissions with converters and related equipment will ship by
Freight in a special container.
|10"||Street/Strip||2600 - 3300 RPMs||500||425||$546.00||$643.00
|9"||Full Race||3500 - 5000 RPMs||1000||900||$1,034.00||$1,217.00
|8"||Full Race||4000 - 6500 RPMs||1000||900||$931.00||$1,095.00
|10"||Full Race||2500 - 4000 RPMs||750||600||$884.00||$1,040.00
What kind of transmission fluid should I use?
For Street and Street/Strip applications we only recommend the use of Ford type "F" Transmission fluid. For Extreme Duty applications we only recommend the use of ULX-110 type fluid. Both of these fluids are natural Petrolium based. Both of these fluids contain zinc which is the primary additive for proper lubrication for high performance transmissions. We do not recomend synthetic transmission fluids.
How much transmission fluid does my transmission take?
The transmission and torque convertor can take anywhere from 9 to 13 quarts of fluid. Most of the fluid is contained in the torque convertor. After installation of the transmission and convertor is complete, pour (4-5) quarts of transmission fluid into the transmission. Then place transmission into neutral, start engine, and quickly add transmission fluid until it reaches the full mark (pan rail level on most applications) on the dipstick. Shift transmission into reverse and let run approximately (3) minutes. Running in reverse (3) minutes will give any contaminants in the transmission, converter, cooler or lines a chance to settle into the transmission pan and not be introduced to the automatic shift control part of the valve body or governor, causing the shift valves to stick. For more details follow link. http://www.fbperformance.com/NewSite/page.asp?get=14&t=Bottom2
Why is the automatic transmission generally perfered over a stick shift transmission?
From a convenience stand point, most high performance automatic transmissions have the ability to be shifted manually or automatically. From an efficiency standpoint, today’s automatic transmissions incorporate a more efficient torque converter that is specifically built for each application. These torque converters have the ability to multiply the engines torque during the stall phase. A clutch on the other hand, simply is along for the ride by connecting the engines power to drive-line. All converters also have a built-in fluid dampening feature. For the higher horsepower applications the automatic transmission and converter combination is more often than not more durable and reliable than the clutch and standard gear box combination. We’ve found when doing conversions from stick to automatic in high performance vehicles that these cars generally drop from a half to three quarters of a second in elapsed time in the quarter mile.